The Rough Guide to Ecuador lists Cuenca as its “most seductive” city, it’s a very good description. The city itself has old Spanish Colonial Architecture with narrow cobbled streets. The Cathedral and central park area is beautiful, I could have sat for hours people watching and enjoying the sunshine. Obviously I didn’t as the other members of the gang get restless after 2 minutes in one spot! It’s old and traditional but arty and quirky too, students, tourists, workers and indigenous peole in traditional dress all rub shoulders on the narrow streets. It’s Ecuador’s second largest city and from above it looks huge but inside it feels small and you can drive right into the centre. It’s my favourite S American city so far.
The other joy is that 20 minutes drive and you are in rolling green hills where people still farm as they always have.
We stayed at a beautiful Hacienda next to Lago Molino. The owners were away but allowed us to ride their lovely horses.
As with any Ecuadorean home it came complete with it’s own pack of resident dogs, with a slight difference! I have never had a close encounter with a Neapolitan Mastiff before and would probably prefer not to again. Not vicious, once you were in the grounds but big, barky, with a bouncy welcoming style and lack of spatial awareness which made me afraid of being flattened. Special mention must go to Canela the chocolate lab who came with us on our rides and fiercely protected all of us from any attempt by other dogs to bother us. She bravely bowled into a whole pack from a nearby farm who were definitely up for a spot of horse chasing and told them what was what. Top dog.
We had a fantastic stay in Cuenca exploring the city, the countryside and the pretty little towns of Gualaceo and Chordeleg nearby. The sun was warm, we walked miles and will be sad to say goodbye.
Pirate Travels 